![]() The Roll being in many respects overpowered as the motors are hyper responsive, wont need such a high value so long as the response is crisp and without overshoot. Reason for this is that your Pitch not only sets the crafts orientation but direction of flight. Your strongest P-Term will always be Pitch, followed by Roll and then lastly Yaw. Even then, D-Term isn't likely to help much. The Servo's we use are normally 300 - 330 hz so adding D-Term before the tail P-Term and I-Term is well tuned will make the Servo next to impossible to tune it. D-Term adds excess delay to the system thats already 100 times slower than the worst ESC on the market. The Servo is 100% driven by the level of P-Term, while I-Term is used to hold your orientation. Not only does this counter the majority of the prop-wash but it makes the tail so much easier to manage. Ditch Triflight for the latest Betaflight & motor RPM-filtering. Īlong with that, I'll suggest the following: Now a while back I did a write up on RCGroups on how to setup and tune a Tri that you might find helpful. Here is that build but keep in mind that I have updated this considerably: įrom this year, here's one of my better 2S micro builds with video: Hey guys, just saw your video and I loved it, Its great how you did this as a team effort! Myself I've built a dozen or so Tricopters starting with the RC-Explorer Tri-Baby back a few years ago. Looking forward to hearing your comments and suggestions! Photos Now it spends most of its time sitting inside, being flown occasionally, but with no better results, atleast it looks cool and unique! If I want to fly it I have to bring a seperate remote with me, you see its still fighting every step of the way :D Perhaps mine has a gypsy curse on it :DĪlso its running the old Ibus receiver with my old Turnigy Evolution remote and I do not think its worth putting a 30 euro crossfire receiver in it, which is what I am running now on my builds paired with Tango 2. However more likely, this is just how the tricopter are, although I have seen much better footage on Youtube. Perhaps the motors are too weak and cannot keep up with the pid loop, perhaps the servo midpoint and endpoints are not set correctly. Ultimately none of us could tune out the wobbles. Here you update your firmware and select the features you require for you build.This was our process of making it, it was long and difficult and no matter what you do, the tricopter would fight back, hence the name TRYBIT-H! □️ Video Transmitter Tab □️ Race Transponder Tab □️ Led Transponder Tab □️ Sensors Tab □️ Tethered Logging Tab □️ Blackbox Tab □️ CLI TabīetaFlight has a command line interface (CLI) that can be used to change settings and configure the FC □️ Firmware Flasher Tab Change motor direction and mixing, and set up advanced telemetry and flight features □️ OSD Tabīetaflight OSD allows the pilot to view in-flight information and telemetry data overlaid onto their FPV camera feed. Modes are enabled □️ Adjustments Tab □️ Servos TabĬonfigure motor and ESC settings. Modes are used to enable or disable features and trigger FC actions using AUX channels switches. They are short snippets of CLI commands that can be □️ PID Tuning Tab □️ Receiver TabĪ receiver is a device that (as its name suggests) receives data from a transmitter, usually your □️ Modes Tab Presets offer an easy way to configure your settings. Set the voltage and current sensor sources and □️ Failsafe Tab □️ Presets Tab ![]() Set up all your power and battery related settings. This includes things □️ Power & Battery Tab This is where most of the main configuration of your flight controller will be done. You will have multiple different devices and peripherals connected to your flight controller UART ports, □️ Configuration Tab The setup tab is the first tab you see □️ Ports Tab □️ Setup TabĪ place for basic settings and flight controller information. Learn all of the configurator tabs and options.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |